Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified. When in doubt.follow the bottle."Īlways read and understand the manual so you know what the car is trying to tell you.įlashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring systemįlashing red coolant light = low on coolant Coolant to water ratio should be 70/30 (60/40 for G12+ I believe) for optimal freeze and boil protection. Step Three: Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Step Two: Pour in just enough coolant to bring the line on the reservoir up to the COLD mark. I have not checked the accuracy of the factory temp gauge (yet). The engine runs at approx 100C (+/-) and the coolant fans do work. Your dealer is the best place to purchase the correct coolant. Step One: Once the engine is completely cool, take the cap off the coolant reservoir and let any ambient pressure equalize. The Temp light starts flashing around 10 seconds after start-up, regardless of engine temp. Mixing the two will result in a foamy/gummy/nasty mess in your cooling system. Also if there is an intermittent fault, the light will keep flashing anyway until the circuit is reset by turning the ignition off. No green, orange or any type of "global" coolant. Use VW or Pentosin G12 or G12+ coolant only. But if you live in a cold climate, it is best to top-off with coolant/distilled water mix to keep the freeze protection up. Small top-offs with just distilled water are OK. Top off your coolant reservoir and problem is solved. As you start driving the coolant starts moving and heating up, this causes it to come into contact with the coolant level sensor which makes the flashing stop. What is happening is that when you start the cold engine, the level is low. I already explained this in your thread, I'll copy and paste it below for shellbug.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |